September presented us with the opportunity to travel outside the borders of South Africa, not being ones to miss an opportunity we planned a family fly-in safari of distinction! Destination…. Lake Malawi, South Luangwa and Lower Zambezi, Zambia. Permission was granted for Dane and Tristan to escape their school desks for 7 days and excitement levels were fever pitch (with a few teachers trying to sneak into the plane!!) Flight permits were obtained, weather and wind checked, pilot prepped, snack boxes filled and we were ready for an early departure on Thursday morning.

We took off from Wonderboom airport and headed for Polokwane to clear customs, refuel – then off to Lilongwe to do the whole process again!! A uneventful 3 ½ flight later we had landed, collected Luke and were back in the plane again for the quick 20 min hop to Monkey bay where we were met by Simon and whisked off to paradise….Pumulani was beckoning. The boys hopped through the roof (how fun are those land cruisers with the sunroofs? Very different to ours)

What a spectacular arrival driving up this steep hill past the most ancient gigantic baobab to the top of the world….the main lodge opens up to the view over the lake and into the hills beyond (we could not see them as it was very hazing but knew they were there!)and then down and onto the tempting beach, complete with a huge wooden carved dhow – WOW! After pinching ourselves a few times we were taken to our villa – a glorious room at beach level with a room for us and another for the boys – a quick look around – big windows, big shower, big lounge and mini bar kitchen area and big, big bed….need I say more? Next it was off to the beach to look for those glorious coloured fish….. But decisions had to be made, snorkel, kayak, eat, sundowner sail, water sports, chill (not a chance!!)so much to do and not enough time – well we were determined to fit it all in - we did.

For me the highlight was the snorkeling in the “aquarium” – a short boat ride away and into another world – those fish were just knock out, the most incredible blues I have ever seen, they just had me completely mesmerized, as a result the others just paled in comparison…crystal clear water and zillions of fish different sizes just everywhere! Also strange to be looking at coloured fish but no salty taste in the water – I kept having to remind myself we were not in the sea (so no threat of sharks wanting to chomp us)

The food was delicious and made us feel like we were on a beach holiday in Malawi – the staff were fabulous with that famous warm heart of Malawi evident everywhere. Thank you Pumulani we loved you!!….and we were sad to leave but ready for the next step in our adventure.

Back to the plane – runway had to be cleared of onlookers, with the weather looking a tad dark we took off to find the clear blue stuff and headed back to Lilongwe, a quick turnaround then Mfuwe was next stop and more paperwork. Hello Zambia! Our next adventure a walking safari with Robin Pope Safaris-sleeping at Luangwa bush camp-yippee. After seeing Jo and finally meeting Robin (what an honour) at Nkwali they delivered us to our home for the next 2 nights – tents set up under a glorious Sausage Tree with crunching leaves underfoot – superb. Robin and Jo treated us to a delicious lunch then were off to attend to their guests – we settled in and were soon ready for our first walk…With Rocky in the lead and the 3 of us close behind we marched in to discover the wonders of the South Luangwa river bed and flood plains. We were not disappointed within 5 mins we found a sleeping hippo – I grabbed Dane and hid behind Rocky with visions of the hippo just wanting to get back to the river and in the process running straight into us– not so - this chap ambled off into the riverine thicket and disappeared – talk about heart attack!! After that we saw loads of sleeping hippos and I was very cool, calm and collected from then onwards.

To be sleeping in the bushveld with the night sounds and in a tent with shade cloth sides was just glorious – even the early wake up was a breeze. Tristan joined us the next morning and we set off for a monster walk to see what we could see – well it turned out to be the most incredible and unexpected walk I have ever been on – talk about first time luck for the boys. Here’s what we saw: pennant winged nightjar (spent a long time trying to get a photo of him – very difficult indeed), big herd of buffalo, lion (had tea watching him, watching us, both sitting under separate bushes) and then the highlight ….walking away from the tea stop Rocky motioned that he had heard an alarm call and we were off again following close in his footsteps, stopping to listen when he did and hardly daring to breath then around a bush we got a glimpse – leopard. We then spent the 45 mins following the leopard along the edge of the drop off into the flood plain and saw him a couple more times – but the sensation of finding a leopard on foot was incredible and way more than we ever thought we would see. We would have been content with birds, trees, noises and a few buck etc – this was just mind blowing – thanks Rocky, Robin and Jo for letting us take some special memories from South Luangwa home with us….a rare privilege indeed. We also popped into see Tena Tena and the Safari House and Nkwali – awe inspiring settings and ambience. Another treat was seeing Robin and Jo’s house –a waterhole full of elephants and muddy warthogs, right on their front doorstep – glorious.

From Mfuwe we headed to the banks of Zambezi River and Chongwe River Camp. Yooowzer what a setting – the magnificent Zambezi river with the mountains of the escarpment creating a majestic backdrop and a very special camp nestled under the Albia trees. Wow and to be back on the banks of the Zambezi looking over to Mana Pools – where I had spent many happy holidays with my parents and Jan walking, exploring and learning – a blast from the past indeed – very warming to my Zimbabwean soul!

I did get some quizzical looks when Michelle came up to tell me our toaster we had inadvertently left in the vehicle at Mfuwe would be on a plane to Chongwe the next day – now this is no normal toaster, after enjoying making toast over the coals at PRS I challenged the family to find one as we drove through the town (they are small metal “buckets’ with a lip around the top and a shelf in the middle to put coals on – great, light, mobile taster now you can understand why I had to have one!!) Well to my delight Rocky found one so I was happy the toaster and I would be reunited….

Our fist afternoon we took a canoe trip down the Zambezi and along a canal/backwater, past a herd of elephants, surprised by a hippo snorting his warning right next to the canoe (another heart attack moment!) and a lone dagga by chewing his cud with an egret hoping for him to rustle up an easy meal. Sundowners were a special affair with the moon rising downstream and the sun setting up stream – difficult to decide where to look. A night drive back to camp produced our first ever sighting on a white tailed mongoose – wonderful indeed. The next day I opted for a walk, whilst the boys and Jan went fishing for tigers…..my walk ended at Bushbuck camp – where we were to stay for the night and the happy fishermen joined me there for lunch. Bushbuck is a charming camp on top on top of a river bed cliff – I saw more than 30 bushbuck, kuku, elephant, various birds from my vantage point. One night at Bushbuck was not enough – it is too special. We managed a sneaky look at the new suites from the river – incredible. Jan and the boys looked at the River house – the pictures they showed me literally jumped out of the camera with life and creativity, what a spot…..

Too soon the last morning dawned – we hugged Cris goodbye and were off again for the final leg home – Livingstone (should have added a day and stayed overnight at Sindabezi and squeezed in a swim on the edge of the Falls – bad planning Jaci!!) then Polokwane to clear customs and back to a yummy pizza at Wonderboom….

We are privileged indeed to have access to 1)our own plane and a very pliant pilot (my husband Jan, whose passion is planes and could legally fly before he could drive) and 2) be a member of Classic Safari Camps of Africa – allowing us to experience and be an integral part of the best Africa has to offer. A very special thank you to Margeaux, Robin, Jo and Cris for making our trip one that will be remembered and held in our memories forever.